Staples of Japanese cuisine such as sushi and sashimi, once regarded as exotic, if not downright disgusting, have been embraced around the world to a degree once unimaginable. Global gourmets have taken to many other esoterica, from matcha and mochi to tofu and natto. Are there any culinary challenges left for travelers hankering for authenticity in their noshing? Let us propose the humble Oden.
Perhaps it’s this steamy dish’s aroma redolent of fish and daikon radish, or the octopus tentacles poking out of the oden broth, or the fact that many of the ingredients cannot be translated into appetizing sound bites. Whatever the reason, this humble, inexpensive comfort food loved across the length and breadth of Nippon is almost unknown beyond the nation’s borders. Perhaps Oden’s breakout moment is coming! Be in the vanguard by mastering the mysteries of this quintessentially Japanese dish.
Oden glossary, clockwise from 12 o’clock: hanpen, Satsuma-age, konnyaku, daikon, fukuro, harusame (white noodles), chikuwa (on skewers). In the middle are kobu-maki (kelp rolls) and tamago (hardboiled egg).
Simply put, oden (pronounced o-DEN, with the emphasis on the second syllable) is a mix of fishcakes, vegetables, tofu, hardboiled egg, and other savory morsels simmered in a carefully tended stock. It’s a veritable chamber ensemble of contrasting textures playing in the key of umami. A popular and cheap cold-weather snack, it is available from street carts, oden restaurants (oden-ya), pubs, and 7-Eleven convenience stores, where a tub of oden simmers by the checkout counter.
Ordering: The vat of oden sits in plain view, so simply point at what you like. Most shops price it by the piece or sara (plate, usually with three pieces). It is served with a dab of hot mustard. To make a meal of it with rice and side dishes, ask for oden teishoku.
Here is your essential oden vocab:
Fish
ちくわ chikuwa (hollow, cylindrical baked fish sausage)
はんぺん hanpen (fluffy white fishcake)
薩摩揚げ satsuma-age (deep-fried fishcake)
“たこ tako (octopus)
Tofu
あつ揚げ atsu-age (deep-fried tofu)
ふくろ fukuro (deep-fried tofu pouch filled with minced vegetables)
がんもどき ganmodoki (deep-fried tofu-and-vegetable dumpling)
Other
大根 daikon (radish)
こんにゃく konnyaku (devil's tongue jelly; pure texture; spice it with plenty of mustard!)
ロールキャベツ rōru kyabetsu (stuffed cabbage)
里芋 sato-imo (taro yam)
玉子 tamago (hard-boiled egg)
You can enjoy oden in a restaurant, but for our money, nothing beats the atmospherics of one of the oden pushcarts that appear during winter months around train stations. Point out the items you’d like to try, order a beer, and dig in!
For more insights into authentic Japanese cuisine, consult your Gateway to Japan, Digital edition.
